Seamwork Moji Pants

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Guys, a Seamwork pattern! Also, Baby’s First Non-Legging Pants!

So here’s the scoop- everyone knows about Colette. They were the second-ever indie pattern company I ever heard about, and were largely responsible for my love of and knowledge of indie sewing companies. I am obsessed with their aesthetic and branding and admire the hell out of Sarai- she’s is seriously a sewing #bossbitch and a smart lady and has created nothing smaller than an empire.

But I’ve never made a Colette pattern until this year.

Have you ever seen a celebrity who is super gorgeous but who just doesn’t do it for you in like, a sex way? That’s how Colette always was for me- admire the business, love the branding, respect the hustle, but none of the patterns ever sung to me. The vintage-twee thing isn’t really my bag. I tried the free bloomers and felt kind of like a frilly wrapped candy.

But then their branding and designs started to shift- more knits, more simple silhouettes. Remember the Laurel, the ultra simple shift dress? That was the beginning of the end of all those vintagey details, and then came Seamwork, which is full of simple silhouettes and easy projects. Definitely a departure from the usual Colette offerings, a transition that continues (I could dedicate a whole other blog post just to the paper pattern releases since Seamwork’s inception– let’s just say that the evolution of this brand is fascinating to me).  I’ve kept a careful eye to the Seamwork offerings ever since, because I could tell they held a lot more promise as items I’d love to make and wear. Enter, Moji.

I have some acid green batik that I have been rambling about for what feels like one billion years because it has literally been stashed since 1999, when my mom bought it to make shorts for me. (Fun fact: acid green was my favorite color in fifth grade and my parents to this day think it remains my favorite color.) I wanted some of those loose woven pajama-type pants that have been popular for a few summers now, and I thought this was a good combo of pattern and fabric. Judging by the model photos and the many times the Colette team has been photographed wearing them, they looked perfect.

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I made these up in a straight size 4, according to my measurements. The only change I made was to pop in an elastic waist instead of a drawstring. (I also minimized the seam allowance when sewing the waistband to 1/4″ instead of 5/8″ because of concerns about the rise that I will get into in the paragraph below. I needed all the extra waistband I could get!)  They came together really quickly, used fairly minimal fabric for a pair of pants, are suitably bright and cheery for spring. I got a lot of compliments today at work, which is all you can really ask for.

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obligatory butt-fitting shot. the butt seems fine but the waistband is RIGHT under the hem of my teeshirt here! to me, that’s low. 

HOWEVER, I have some complaints/observations about the fit. I tried these on right after I joined the crotches and had a moment of panic that I had somehow sewed them together backwards. Careful lining up of pattern pieces reassured me that I had done it right, which apparently means that the front is supposed to be slightly pouchy and the back a little spare? They wear fine, but maybe I’m just used to a higher rise in the back? Wearing these reminds me of the superlow bootcut jeans me and all my friends wore in highschool I do not have fond memories of constantly yanking the back of my pants up when I sat down in class. The Mojis are not quite as low as that, but I just don’t think I’ve worn a pair of pants this low slung in a very long time. If I were ever to make these again, I would alter them to come up an inch or two more. It stands to note that the Madeleine bloomers fit me really similarly– do I just have more junk in the trunk than Colette is used to? Is this rise of pant their standard?

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because no pants-sewing blog post is complete without a crotch shot. the crotch on these is…fine? maybe a little baggy? are baggy crotches a thing?

Also– and this isn’t so much a complaint as an observation, but I was expecting these to be kind of loose in the leg– not billowing, but a little room to spare, as pictured on the modeled product shot above and on the Colette staff themselves. However these are tight along my calf, almost like a skinny jean. I hemmed them a little higher more than the pattern called for just so I would get a smidge more of an opening in the ankle. For non-stretch fabric, that’s important! I still have to be careful working my foot through.

So would I make these again? I’m not sure. Normally I would chalk fit issues like this up to user error, but this was a very simple pattern with like three pieces, so I don’t see how I could have messed it up this badly. If I ever feel the need for another pair of pants like this in my wardrobe again, I’ll look at the Moji, but I’d have to take a look at the calves and the waist. And for a $9 PDF download, I honestly expect more. I’ll gladly fork over money for a beautiful PDF pattern, but this just wasn’t that for me (I supposed I should say though that the instructions were beautiful, clear and amazing, as is to be expected from Colette). Has anyone else used a Seamwork pattern they loved? Let me know, I want to try them again!

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ALSO, I decided to try Me Made May again this year, but I’ll only be posting every day over on my instagram and doing periodic roundups here. Join me over there if you wanna see me wear these pants in real life.

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3 thoughts on “Seamwork Moji Pants

  1. Yay first woven pants! Congratulations! Sorry they didn’t quite fit as planned, but they look cool and pants-fitting to be a real learning curve (and a weird pattern sure doesn’t help.) If you are looking for a similar pants pattern, I LOVE Vogue 8909. The rise is a bit long – I took out 3/4″ – 1″ – but they are lovely through the leg. (Also – big Fiona Apple fan over here!)

    • Thanks for the recommendation! I know pants are tricky but it’s hard to tell when it’s drafting and it’s just you making a mistake, right? I’ll look into that Vogue one. I always trust Vogue!

      Also I LOVE Fiona Apple! I got this shirt at a show I saw her at and it was absolutely amazing– she took off her shoes and jumped around for like three hours straight!

      • I would love to see her sometime… lucky, lucky you!!

        It is tough and lower body / legs are just so different on all of us. The best I’ve been able to do is look for fit quirks that happen even as people of different shapes and skill levels make the pattern. Even then, I usually have changes in mind after my first try! On the Vogue ones, I added more booty room as well as lowering the rise. Oh, pants!

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